Recent content by PanavisionT2

I was guessing at the stop difference. I couldn't remember if he said 1/10th, 1/12th or 1/16th. I just remember it being extraordinarily slight and realizing that I couldn't rely solely on f-stops if I wanted to attain as close a consistency as possible.

The fact that stocks today are more sensitive then their earlier counterparts make the importance of seeing the difference in exposures even more prevalent. The inability to attain consistency in your images will limit your field of opportunity as a cinematographer. I can't think of any...

They do matter actually. If you watch Cinematographer Style, one of the DP's interviewed recounts how in his early days, an old school cinematographer taught him how to distinguish between a 1/16th of a stop. If you want to be a professional, you need to be able to see the difference between the...

Understand that by going from 16mm to 35mm you will be magnifying your grain structure to a noticeable level. With that in mind, it's best to discuss the transfer you want to do with your lab. The ASA of your PRINT stock will depend on what you want the final image to look like (factoring in...

Generally, the old rule was that you mounted your camera on a support system that was five times more expensive than your camera. What you mount your camera to is directly related to the quality of the movement you will be able to execute. If you mount a Panavision camera to prosumer head and...

Put your best stuff up front and keep the entire thing under 15 minutes. Even better if you keep it to 10. Don't run entire projects back to back, lay down only your best scenes/shots/sequences and keep the pacing tight. DO NOT try to make it flashy, most professionals see through that bullshit...

That is the most inexpensive light meter on the market that is reliable and accurate. The majority of newer light meters cost between $500 and $2000. Besides, you're talking about a difference of $70. These are the tools of the trade and if you buy cheap tools, you'll end up with a cheap product.

Try eBay. Make sure you bid on it from someone who has sold at least 100 items or more and has a 98% positive rating.

What you're referring to is called a composite. Trust me, you can't afford it. Here's why: The lab is going to conform your edit based either on your EDL (edit decision list) or your work print which you will submit back to the lab. If you have fades, dissolves or any other optical cues, the...

This meter has always served me well. STUDIO-DELUXE-LIGHT-METER

For a great book on this topic and many more, pick up a copy of Cinematography by Kris Malkiewicz. It's an excellent book on the subject. For outstanding articles about the different artistic choices in the use of shutter and aperture, get a subscription to American Cinematographer. Both the...

Are you shooting on film or video? The 'film look' does not come from the lights themselves, it comes from the film. There are video camera's out there that can emulate the look of film by running at 24p with the right shutter and aperture setting. The 'quality' of the light comes from the...

First off: What kind of film are you shooting? 16mm? 35mm? Second: Whenever you're shooting on film -NOT video- you ALWAYS need a light meter, and you must know how to properly get readings. If you're shooting on video, it's still a good idea to have a light meter so that you can attain...

Residue left behind is most often caused by using too much solution. In most cases, half of a spritz from the nozzle is more than enough to adequately clean the surface of the lens. However the lint or 'particles' left behind by various lens tissues/cloths is very normal and the best way to...

That's what I meant by clarity, finer grain. Can you describe the intensity of the color towards the pastel feel? Are we looking at a 5%, 10%, 20% shift in color? I'm sure it doesn't go easter candy pastel but how big a shift is it? Can I compensate the color loss by adding more color while I'm...