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Yes, you are limited by how far you can underexpose while still holding detail. However, lighting very dark skin, if it has a bit of a sheen to it, is a little like lighting any shiny dark object like a black car -- the level of the light hitting the object can be less important than the...

Generally you shouldn't have flicker problems with normal 60 Hz lights unless there is a faulty, old ballast or tube (but often you can see that with your own eyes). Yes, the camera is effectively crystal-speed. Now technically at 23.98P, there is some slight flicker with 60 Hz fluorescents...

No, you don't need to tell the lab how you exposed something, just how they should develop it (normal, push one, pull one, etc.) How you expose it up to you. The main thing is that it helps to put a grey scale at the head of the roll, exposed for what you consider neutral, so overexposed if...

I've never had to do it myself. There are probably some after-market products but they may be camera-specific.

Sorry, I don't have any 3D experience yet to answer your questions, but I'm sure a Google search would yield a number of sites to check out. I bet even the Wikipedia page on 3D would be good to read...

If you are making the shadow side of a face look darker than the sunny backlight, then technically you aren't underexposing, you are exposing the image normally to get the look you want, which is, for the face to feel a bit darker than full key level. The negative would still be printing...

I guess you pick whatever area you want to compose within or protect around, which is why you can select different Marker settings. Don't know the answer to the second, but it can be useful to be able to adjust the Kelvin of a monitor to match the surroundings better, especially if you are...

I'd probably look at Innovision's Probe lenses...

Not if you do the skip bleach to the print, not the negative. But if you skip bleach the negative, you gain a lot of density as if you had overexposed the negative by one stop, maybe one and a half stop. So you may want to rate the stock a stop slower to compensate. But if you do it the...

It was mostly shot on 200T color neg stock using a 81EF filter instead of the 85B filter outdoors in daylight for a cooler color cast. Sometimes the negative was flashed using a Panaflasher to lower contrast. All this because later the prints went through a silver retention process similar to...

I was a sci-fi geek when I was young, watching Japanese monster movies and "Star Trek" re-runs, which lead me to reading sci-fi literature like by Arthur C. Clarke, which lead me to see "2001" when it premiered on TV in 1976 or so, when I was 14-ish. Then in 1977, I saw "Star Wars" and even...

Basically, yes, you can't underexpose dark skin much before you drop off too much in shadow detail. But it also depends on the reflectivity of the skin and how much you can get a highlight to reflect in it. Think of a scenario where you would be lighting a black shiny car at night. You...

It just depends on how it handles 24P for recording, and how you plan on monitoring the image and posting the footage. Some of the HD camcorders record 24P to 60i/1080 with a pulldown, just as the DVX100 records 24P to 60i/480. Others record 24P as 24PsF. 24P is semi-universal, meaning that...

Unfortunately, Europe adopted an HDTV standard of 50 Hz, so it's either 720/50P or 1080/50i for broadcast. US HDTV broadcast is 720/70P or 1080/60i. And most 24P HDV camcorders in the USA record 24P to 60i/1080 with a pulldown, just as the DV ones record 24P to 60i/480 with a pulldown, whereas...

I don't do it that way. I point the incident meter ball at the light I want to read and decide for myself how much to over or underexpose it for a look. I don't want the meter averaging things for me.

My impression searching online is that Tobin used to make motors for the K3 but doesn't anymore, so you'd have to find a used one. http://www.k3camera.com/k3/k3motor.php http://konvas.org/faq/krasnogorsk-k-3-16mm-camera-does-it-work.html http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/archive/index.php/t-38339.html

Depends on the dynamic range of the format you are shooting in terms of holding highlight detail. For film, you either find a spot in the sky that you imagine is close to 18% grey in value, or you find a lighter area and guess how many stops over 18% grey it is. You figure that to hold color...

Depends on the dynamic range of the system you are using in terms of how much overexposure you can hold. Best thing is to shoot a simple over and underexposure test to see what a face looks like when it is exposed differently. You also have to look at the frame and decide whether you should...

http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/Makeup/4303/maxivision.html http://rogerebert.suntimes.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/19991212/COMMENTARY/212010335/1023 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maxivision

Color-correcting the green out of fluorescents requires shifting the whole image in the opposite direction of green, so non-greenish lighting becomes pink (magenta). So first you have to add green to everything else so that it all matches the greenish fluorescents and then you color-correct or...